Changing picks and accessories on DMM ice axes

This knowledge article demonstrates how to swap picks and modular accessories on the Apex, Cortex, and Vertex ice axes. These models share an interchangeable pick system, allowing for customisation based on climbing conditions.

Tools and Preparation

  • T30 Torx key – supplied with the axe – or equivalent torque wrench bit
  • 4mm Hex key or equivalent torque wrench bit
  • Nylon hammer
  • Safety glasses and work gloves
  • Medium-strength threadlocker – such as Loctite 243
  • Scrap cardboard for applying threadlocker

Step 1: Remove Pick Weights

If the axe is fitted with pick weights, use a 4mm Hex key to loosen and remove the bolts. Set the weights and bolts aside.

Step 2: Remove the Head Bolts

Use a T30 Torx key to loosen the two main bolts in the head. To remove the nuts without damaging the threads:

  1. Loosen the bolts and then screw them back in three turns so they are engaged with the nuts.
  2. Tap the heads of the bolts with a nylon hammer to push the nuts out of the opposite side.
  3. Fully unscrew and remove the bolts and nuts.

Step 3: Disassemble the Head

Separate the pick and the hammer or adze from the axe head. If the hammer is tight, tap it on a flat surface to release it. Wrapping the hammer or adze in a cloth prevents it from bouncing away upon release. Retain any modular parts for reuse.

Step 4: Align the New Components

Configure your chosen combination of pick and modular accessory. Align the trochoid shapes on the pick with the corresponding shapes on the hammer or adze. Slide the assembly into the axe head.

Step 5: Reinsert the Bolts

  1. Insert the first nut, ensuring the trochoid shape is correctly aligned before pushing it home.
  2. Put on gloves before proceeding.
  3. Apply pressure to the pick to align the second hole, then insert the remaining nut.

Step 6: Apply Threadlocker and Tighten

  1. Place a small amount of Loctite 243 on a piece of card.
  2. Roll the end of each bolt in the threadlocker before insertion.
  3. Thread the bolts into the nuts by hand.
  4. Torque Settings: Tighten the head bolts to 10Nm using a torque wrench. If using a standard Torx key, tighten until hand-firm; do not overtighten, as this may damage the socket.

Step 7: Refit Pick Weights

Reattach the pick weights if required. If using a torque wrench, tighten these bolts to 4Nm. Ensure the hex socket is not stripped during tightening.

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