The arrival of better weather in the northern hemisphere is time to dust off your trad gear and look over that tick-list of must-do routes. No matter if you are onsighting big pitches or building your first rack, our wall-to-wall range of trad gear will help you turn those aspirations into reality.
At the heart of any such rack are wired nuts. They have come a long way from the basic straight-sided stoppers of yesteryear, and you’ll now benefit from the greater placement options that come with the complex curves and shapes of Wallnuts, Halfnuts and Alloy Offsets.
For pushing into the harder grades IMP Brass Nuts, Peenuts and Brass Offsets will let you take advantage of the smallest cracks and marginal placements.
Our Torque Nuts are a versatile and lightweight passive protection option for parallel sided cracks. Taming such cracks and scary off-widths is made possible using Dragon Cams (size 00–8).
For narrower cracks but featuring the same proven camming angle and extendable Dynatec sling, Dragonfly Cams will inspire confidence. The benefit of their narrow head-width is obvious with small pockets. The six Dragonfly Cams cover a range from 7.8mm – 28.3mm.
When it comes to wiregate quickdraws and if weight is the main priority, then your choice is either a notched nose Phantom or our new Aether featuring a shrouded clean-nose on a 11mm Dynatec sling.
For someone building their first lead rack the shrouded nose Spectre quickdraw offers good value with a minimal weight penalty. If you have larger hands or looking for a wiregate with superb ergonomics, a deep rope basket and a clean nose then your choice might be the Alpha Wire.
No trad rack would be complete without some locking carabiners, a belay device and slings. For lockers with a wide gate opening, it is the Shadow and Boa HMS and a lightweight option for trad is the Phantom HMS that is ideally suited for belaying and use at stances.
A lightweight belay device with an impressive holding power that is suitable for a wide variety of rope diameters is the Mantis. The Pivot features the same fall-stopping performance but with the option of being used in guide mode, as opposed to indirect belaying from the harness. The pivoting shackle makes it easier to release and control lowering seconds.
DMM Wall to Wall. Arguably the most comprehensive range of trad gear in the galaxy.
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If you're visiting from outside the UK, check out the retailers directory to find your local DMM dealer.
Looking for more inspiration?
Angus Kille takes us through the route reading, tenacity and trad rack required to onsight Styx (E7 6c) in a gruelling 60m push. Watch the YouTube video.