Born:

1994, Sheffield, England

Biggest achievement:

The Zone (E9 6c), Curbar / Mission Impossible (E9 7a), third ascent / Sport climbed 8c+ and bouldered 8A+

DMM athlete since:

2016

Oli Grounsell is a Sheffield-based climber and coach with one of the most quietly impressive all-round CVs in British climbing. Introduced to the sport at a birthday party at The Edge climbing wall in his early teens, he rapidly progressed through the gritstone grades of the Peak District, onsighting E5 at 16 and building an extraordinary tick list, with trad routes up to E9, sport routes up to 8c+ and boulders up to 8B. Highlights include headpointing The Zone (E9 6c) at Curbar, the third ascent of Mission Impossible (E9 7a) in the Ogwen Valley, the gearless arête of Simba's Pride (E8 6b) at Burbage South and a growing list of hard sport routes across Europe. He spent a year travelling and climbing across Canada, Mexico, Australia and China after university, broadening a game already well beyond the Peak. Now back in Sheffield, Oli works as a coach for Lattice Training, crafting personalised training plans for climbers around the world, and brings the same low-key, thoughtful approach to coaching that he brings to his own climbing.

"Enjoy the climbing. Getting to the top isn't going to change anything."

Get to know Oli

When did you start climbing?

I started in my early teens at a birthday party at The Edge and really enjoyed it. I had a brief foray into comp climbing, made the GB team at 14, then from about 15 onwards just climbed outside.

What do you consider your most significant climbing achievement to date?

Probably climbing to a reasonably high level across the board.

How would you describe your climbing style and your anti-style?

In the UK: gently overhanging and crimpy. Anti-style: the opposite, steep and thuggy.

How do you manage the mental pressure of a long-term project?

Based on recent climbing: avoid them! In the UK hard projecting doesn't get to me mentally, but I feel it more abroad when I want to make the most of a trip.

What is the most valuable piece of climbing advice you have received?

Think and focus when you're climbing. Don't obsess over it when you're not.

Which crag or mountain is your favourite and which do you consider the most beautiful in the world?

Closer to home, the Harter Gold boulders up in the Lakes is an amazing spot that felt as good as it could get. Further from home, the Tyndall Range in Tasmania is stunning, with clean walls above a huge lake.

What has climbing taught you?

Enjoy the climbing. Getting to the top isn't going to change anything.

×