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Born:

1989. Edale, Peak District, England

Biggest achievement:

Angel’s Share, E8 7a

DMM athlete since:

2014

Katy Whittaker is a British rock climber with nearly 30 years of experience, whose passion for the sport was instilled from childhood through walking, scrambling, and multi-pitch adventures in the hills. Growing up inspired by the trailblazing Lucy Creamer, Katy developed into a highly accomplished climber in her own right, with a preference for technical slab climbing on her beloved gritstone. She is particularly proud of her ground-up gritstone ascents, including Angel's Share and a flash of Shirley's Shining Temple, as well as her headpoint of the fearsome Knockin' On Heaven's Door, a route she describes as one she never wishes to repeat. After a break from climbing to raise her two children, Katy has returned to training with renewed drive and focus, with her sights firmly set on Cosmic Wheels as her next major objective. Guided by the belief that no session is ever wasted, Katy embodies a deep and lifelong connection to climbing, its community, and the quiet clarity it brings.

"Climbing has taught me that I am capable of leaning into fear and anxiety. It gives me the quiet space in my head when the rest of life is so noisy."

Get to know Katy

What do you consider your most significant climbing achievement to date?

I'm probably most proud of my ground-up grit ascents such as Angel's Share and my flash of Shirley's Shining Temple. My headpoint of Knockin' On Heaven's Door also holds a special place, an extremely scary climb I never wish to repeat.

What has climbing taught you?

That I am capable of leaning into fear and anxiety. It gives me a quiet space in my head when the rest of life is so noisy and it's always better shared with people you love.

How would you describe your climbing style?

Slab climbing, technical body positioning and trusting poor feet. I like climbing best where you have to think and use technique rather than just your arms.

Who are your role models, both within and outside the climbing community?

Growing up it was always Lucy Creamer. She was paving the way in onsight trad climbing and winning every National competition. Now I'm most inspired by climbing with my friends.

What is the most valuable piece of climbing advice you have received?

No session is wasted, there is always an opportunity to learn. That mindset has stayed with me throughout my climbing life.

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