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Born:

1981, Keswick, Cumbria, England

Biggest achievement:

Solo of 100 extremes in a day in the Lake District (2014) / First completion of Ken Wilson's Extreme Rock tick-list (2021)

DMM athlete since:

2012

James McHaffie, known throughout the climbing world as Caff, is one of the most accomplished British climbers of his generation and a true legend of hard trad. Growing up in Keswick in the Lake District, he started climbing with his father at 15 and quickly became obsessed, dedicating himself to ticking every starred route in the FRCC guides before working his way through increasingly bold and difficult ground. His record speaks for itself: over 200 routes graded E7 to E9, more than 80 E7 onsights, two routes at 9a and a career highlight that stands apart from all of it, soloing 100 extremes in a single day in the Lake District in 2014. In 2021 he became the first person to complete Ken Wilson's Extreme Rock tick-list of 180 routes. Away from the rock, Caff worked as the BMC Youth and Equity Officer, giving young people from urban areas access to climbing and the outdoors, and is a vocal advocate for action on climate change.

"The difference of 4% extra effort can equal 90% more outcome."

Get to know James

When did you start climbing?

1996. I thought my dad was an idiot for wasting his time going climbing, but then I got the bug somehow.

What do you consider your most significant climbing achievement to date?

The Lakes 100 solo, by a mile.

Which route keeps calling you back?

Diagonal, Dinas Mot.

How would you describe your climbing style and your anti-style?

I love arêtes, techy walls, corners and cracks. I've done things like Careless Talk seven times. Powerful slopers, dynos and slappy moves are definitely not me.

How do you manage the mental pressure of a long-term project?

I don't often have long-term projects as I mainly onsight, but when I do the route has normally grabbed me. I usually make a list of reasons why I want to climb it and refer back to it for motivation. Often just attempting a project repeatedly has got me into better shape than any training I've done.

What is the most valuable piece of climbing advice you have received?

Two pieces, 1 from colin downer- “only a fool misses a good runner placement”, the other from Dave Mac-“the difference of 4% extra effort can = 90% more outcome”.

What keeps you motivated?

I love climbing. There is always something out there that grabs my imagination and makes me want to get out with friends and try it.

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