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Born:

1979. North Yorkshire, England

Biggest achievement:

One-day free ascent of Freerider (5.12d/7c+), El Capitan (2002) / The Nose in 11 hours / First E8 flash, Carmen Picasso (E8 6c) in 2000

DMM athlete since:

1992

Ben Bransby is a Hathersage-based climber and one of the most quietly prolific all-rounders British climbing has produced. Born within sight of Almscliff Crag in North Yorkshire, he did his first roped climb at age five on the Idwal Slabs and has never really stopped. By his early twenties he was onsighting grit E7s, flashing E8s and bouldering 8B. In 2002 he made a one-day free ascent of Freerider on El Capitan with Swiss climber Jvan Tresch, approaching the 31-pitch 5.12d as nothing more than a very long day out at the crag. That same year he also climbed The Nose in just 11 hours. His notable ascents span Greenland, Patagonia, Pembroke, the Peak District and beyond, taking in first ascents, hard sport routes and bold trad at the highest level. Now in his mid-forties and attempting to climb every route on Stanage, Ben remains as keen as ever, guided by the same simple philosophy that has always driven him: climbing feels as natural as breathing.

"I am inspired by people who have been climbing for a long time and still love it. People who can go to a rubbish crag on a rubbish weather day and still have a great time." 

Get to know Ben

When did you start climbing?

I did my first roped climb at age five on Ordinary Route on Idwal Slabs, but I had been scrambling around the base of crags before that. I got really keen around age 10 and even keener by my early teens once I had been leading for a couple of years.

What do you consider your most significant climbing achievement to date?

Climbing Freerider on El Cap free and in a day in 2002. What I really liked is that me and my climbing partner Jvan Tresch just approached it like a normal but big days climbing. We swung leads, free climbed on lead and second and just carried everything we needed. We had to do the entire walk down in our rock shoes as we hadn't carried trainers.

How would you describe your climbing style and your anti-style?

Slow. Anti-style: fast. I prefer to move my body into the best position to then make a move. I don't like moves where you have to dynamically move through them.

Who are your role models, both within and outside the climbing community?

I am inspired by people who have been climbing for a long time and still love it. People who can go to a rubbish crag on a rubbish weather day and still have a great time. My friend Pete Robins is a good example of this.

Which crag or mountain is your favourite and which do you consider the most beautiful in the world?

Two places blew my mind when I first went there: driving into Yosemite on the Greyhound bus in 1998 and walking up the Torre Valley in Patagonia in 2002. The Torre Valley probably tips it, but it is half beautiful and half terrifying.

What is one essential item you always carry in your crag bag that is not climbing gear?

Nothing. I like to keep my bag as light as possible.

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