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Born:

1982, Schramberg, Black Forest, Germany

Biggest achievement:

Free ascent of El Corazón (5.13b, 35 pitches), El Capitan (2015) / First ascent of Space Force (8a+, 230m), Val Bavona, Ticino / One-day onsight of the West Face of El Capitan

DMM athlete since:

2010

Alexandra Schweikart is a German climber, route setter and first ascentionist based between Austria and Greece, who grew up on the crags courtesy of two climbing parents and has been at it ever since. Born in Schramberg in the Black Forest in 1982, she broke into the 8a grade in 2005, reached 8b+ on sport routes and has built an impressive CV across big wall trad, alpine test pieces and new routing across Europe and beyond. Her standout achievement remains her free ascent of El Corazón (5.13b) on El Capitan in 2015, climbing all 35 pitches with her partner Christopher Igel over twelve days on the wall, both leading the crux pitches. The pair also established Space Force, a 230m multi-pitch route in Val Bavona, Ticino, with difficulties up to 8a+. A passionate new router and crag developer, Alex has bolted sectors in Leonidio, established routes on marble in the Greek islands and continues to explore new terrain wherever the rock takes her. Thoughtful, methodical and deeply committed to the process over the tick, she brings the same steady strategy to route setting, new routing and the pursuit of a perfect coffee.

"If I've done the moves, I count it as possible. And I keep counting."

Get to know Alexandra

When did you start climbing?

I started so early that walking felt like a downgrade. My parents picked up rock climbing when I was about two, so I basically grew up thinking ropes and harnesses were normal toddler accessories.

What do you consider your most significant climbing achievement to date?

Free climbing El Capitan via El Corazón. That one felt pretty surreal. Also the first ascent of our multi-pitch route Space Force (8a+) in Ticino with Christopher Igel.

Which route keeps calling you back?

The Salathé Headwall. It is basically my toxic relationship, but vertical.

How would you describe your climbing style and your anti-style?

Steady and strategic. If there is a rest I will find it, even if it is just a philosophical rest. I can hang on when it is sub-limit forever and remember every hold on a 15-pitch route like a bedtime story. My anti-style is bouldery routes with no rests. Anything that feels like a sprint instead of a thoughtful life choice.

What is the most valuable piece of climbing advice you have received?

A complete stranger once watched me struggle with a move, then said simply: I saw you do it. You can totally do this. Next try I sent it. So now my rule is: if I have done the moves, I count it as possible. And I keep counting.

What keeps you motivated?

Coffee. It reaches parts of the body that motivation simply cannot.

Which crag or mountain is your favourite and which do you consider the most beautiful in the world?

Right now Greece: Leonidio, Kyparissi, Manikia and especially the island of Anafí. We bolted a 500-metre route on perfect marble, arriving by sailing boat. At that point you start wondering if life has peaked.

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